There is nothing more disappointing than making a garment according to a shop-bought pattern and then finding that it doesn’t fit at all. It is possible to get the perfect fit, but it does take a bit of extra time the first time you use the pattern.
Always Buy the Right Size
You might think that shop-bought patterns correspond to the size that you buy off the peg, but this is not always the case. Take your exact measurements and buy your pattern according to what you see on your tape measure. Remember that you cannot exchange a homemade dress for a different size. You do not want to waste good money spent on Floral Cotton Poplin Fabric, silk or velvet that can’t be refunded.
If you want to perfect your pattern without risking losing the money you spent on the fabric, you have to make a toile. A toile is a “mock-up” made from a similar weight, cheaper fabric. You don’t need to overlock and add finishing touches; you just need to put the pieces together and add closings, like zips, so you can try it on for fit. If the fabric you are using is still nice, you can go the extra mile and actually finish it off so that it can be worn, but this is not necessary.
Next, you should make your adjustments to the toile. Pin away or add to where you might need more space. Transfer these to your paper pattern, and you should have a near perfect fit when you cut the fabric you have bought from http://www.higgsandhiggs.com/ or any other fabric supplier.
You might feel that the toile is going to take up too much of your time. All couturiers spend hours perfecting a toile. You will even find them on display, like the one of the New Look Jacket that can be found in the Dior museum in Granville, France.
Remember that the time you spend on perfecting the first toile and correcting your pattern will save you so much time in the long run when you are using the pattern repeatedly. You will really be grateful when you are producing the same style in different fabrics over and over without having to worry that it might not fit.